It’s easy to deride the trend of florals for spring, but I find myself quite fond of how flowers embody beauty and growth, things many of us spend our entire lives in pursuit of. Plus, if history tells us anything, the flower motif has so much more potential beyond being a gimmicky marketing ploy for spring. It was a political symbol of peace and love during the Vietnam War protests, and today, we see artists incorporate flowers like poppies and sunflowers into their work in solidarity with Palestine and Ukraine.
Florals aren’t just ornamental. Known for weathering the mercurial elements of spring, they signify resilience and hope as we enter a time of political and economic turmoil. Personally, I love the idea of a floral brooch as a small trinket to convey this sense of resilience and hope. And stylistically, you have plenty of silhouettes to choose from, whether you’re a collector of lilies, roses, or violets. As people have fashioned flower pins for ages, there is a bevy of styles to choose from for the just-right accessory. Here’s a little blog on the most popular vintage floral brooch styles.
I can’t seem to keep enamel brooches in my vintage jewelry shop for very long. These colorful pins hailed from the ‘60s and ‘70s Flower Power movement, which was marked by antiwar demonstrations at the height of the Vietnam War. Stylistically, they departed from the hoity-toity — conservative, some might call it — faux pearl and brushed metal ornate flowers of the ‘50s. They were much simpler in form and showcased the bright colors of Pop Art.
Made from enamel paint and stainless steel, these flower pins are often a little dinged up whenever I get them. But their imperfections don’t seem to detract collectors at all. Their vibrant varnish makes them the perfect retro accent for everything from bags to denim jackets, so they’re not strictly pieces for formal dresses.
When I think of dainty floral wreaths, I am mostly thinking of Krementz. Many Krementz flower brooches from the ‘60s an ‘70s are 14k or 18k gold plated and about the size of a thumbnail, featuring delicate metal flowers finished with some kind of rose gold paint or faux pearl accent. They make for great scarf, hat, and collar pins, especially for those who prefer a delicate embellishment over a statement piece.
When I’m sourcing, I always look for floral stem and bouquet pins, especially gold tone ones. They don’t fetch very much, but they’ve become bread and butter pieces in my business. I find a lot of Avon flower stems and bouquets from the ‘80s, but you can really dig up flower spray pins from all points in history. People love their flowers, and these look great on collars and lapels.
Most of us think of a cameo as a carved or molded piece with the silhouette of a fancy Victorian lady, but cameos can also feature flowers such as roses and lilies. There are primarily two camps of flower cameos: raised and transfer image portraits. The more high-end ones are typically made of shell and gold plating, but more modern pieces are likely fashioned from porcelain or resin. Occasionally, you may also find cross stitch or glass styles.
The fact that anyone thought of making brooches out of very fragile porcelain is diabolical, but porcelain brooches are certainly a thing. Along with the aforementioned floral cameos, I’m thinking of English Staffordshire bone china rose pins and bisque porcelain brooches. Despite how delicate these pieces are, they do give your look an elevated, high-tea accent. They’re perfect for a formal event, but I wouldn’t recommend consistent, daily wear and risk chipping them, as they’re made from the same literal materials as fine china.
Big statement flower brooches can mean anything. I personally think of those classic large Sarah Coventry and Monet gold or silver tone flowers with rhinestone, faux pearl, or acrylic centers from the ‘50s and ‘60s — you know, the kind the titular character wears in the movie Carol. They’re such pretty and versatile pieces, and you can tack them onto everything from blazers to cocktail dresses. They’re showy, but classically beautiful, lovely if you want to make a statement but don’t particularly know how to incorporate splashy enamel pin colors into your look.
The tradition of Italian tile jewelry dates back to the 18th century, but the practice of creating art from tiles goes all the way back to the days of Ancient Rome. Wearing a micro mosaic floral brooch is very much paying homage to great Roman art and architecture. Reminiscent of cameos, micro mosaic floral brooches typically feature a flower or bouquet of flowers made with tiny glass tiles called tesserae. Micro mosaic jewelry can be quite pricey, but it’s definitely worth every cent, considering the fact that someone laid down all those tiles by hand.
As you can see, vintage floral brooches come in a wide range of styles, so you can pick up the perfect accent for your spring look. And not only are they pretty, they’re also rich with history, artistry, and symbolism. If you’re browsing for flower brooches, I’d love to give my vintage Etsy shop a quick plug—head right on over to Fancy Little Thrifts!
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