Somewhere along my vintage jewelry journey, I fell in love with chunky — some might even say yummy — Lucite jewelry. Early during my foray into the vast world of costume jewelry, I flat-out rejected Lucite pieces. After all, Lucite is essentially another fancy word for plastic, right?
Well, that’s somewhat true, but there’s no reason to treat vintage plastic pieces like chopped liver. I don’t think that plastic is automatically tacky or gaudy — in fact, it can be an affordable alternative to precious and semi-precious gemstones and a durable stand-in for glass and ceramic pieces. Lucite pieces, especially vintage earrings and beaded necklaces, can definitely add a retro, eye-catching pop to your look without draining your wallet.
If you’re new to vintage plastic jewelry, here’s a short and sweet primer on Lucite jewelry, especially since Lucite is such a common buzzword on platforms like Ruby Lane, eBay, and Etsy.
Lucite, also called Perspex or Plexiglas, was developed by the DuPont company in 1941. By definition, it’s a thermoplastic acrylic resin – in other words, a strong plastic. As you may have surmised from that capital L, it’s actually a specific trademarked acrylic — of polymethyl methacrylate, to be specific.
Lucite isn’t necessarily an interchangeable term for any old plastic. Lucite is clearer, sturdier, more UV resistant, and more resistant to yellowing than your average acrylic. It’s often used as an alternative to glass because it’s less likely to shatter. That being said, it can still scuff and scratch, so you should treat your vintage Lucite pieces with care.
If you’re looking for an affordable, lightweight alternative to precious and semi-precious gemstones, Lucite comes in beautiful colors with varying levels of opacity. It can be made to resemble rock crystal, so it’s a good dupe for moonstone especially. Often, you’ll find Lucite faux cabochons, but lucite can also be used for the body of a piece, such as petals on a flower brooch.
Because of restrictions around raw materials during World War II, American manufacturers got creative with plastics when building military aircrafts and plane windshields. During this time, plastics like Lucite skyrocketed in popularity. Lucite was preceded by plastics like celluloid and bakelite, but it more or less replaced bakelite by the 1950s.
Popularized by brands like Lisner, Trifari, and Coro, Lucite became a mainstay material in costume jewelry around the 1940s. When American manufacturing ramped up in the ‘50s, it was a popular material because of its affordability for both manufacturers and consumers. Trifari, when Alfred Philippe was at the helm of its design team, was especially known for using Lucite in the middle of its Jelly Belly figural pins. Jelly Belly animal pins (think creatures like frogs and swans) feature a gold-plated body and a clear lucite belly. Many other companies created Jelly Bellies as well, including Coro.
Moonglow Lucite has an opalescent touch to it, and it usually comes in pastel colors like baby pink and blue. Moonglow Lucite is a common material for cabochons in brooches and earrings, but it can also be found in beads for necklaces and bracelets.
Glitter bits and flecks can be added to give it a touch of pizzazz. In fact, there’s even a type of Lucite called Confetti Lucite.
This Lucite texture is perfect for duping amber and glass — it flaunts a yummy, see-through Jolly Rancher kind of finish that’s just-right for statement necklace pendants. Darker colors like burgundy and black are really nice if you’re into a vampy, goth aesthetic.
I often find opaque Lucite used in ‘70s and ‘80s chunky necklaces from Japan, Hong Kong, and Germany. Monet also has some lovely chunky marble-patterned Lucite beaded necklaces from the ‘80s and ‘90s!
There’s a Dolly Parton quote that goes something along the lines of “it costs a lot of money to look this cheap.” While Lucite can be poo-pooed as somewhat tawdry, collectible Lucite pieces can actually cost a pretty penny, like vintage Jelly Bellies and modern Alexis Bittar brooches. But value aside, Lucite jewelry can be quite breathtaking, and I’m a major proponent of buying secondhand styles instead of acquiring new plastic pieces.
This is all to say that I don’t think folks should necessarily write off vintage Lucite styles while browsing thrift stores and online marketplaces. Between beautiful colors and technical artistry, Lucite jewelry can be just as attractive and versatile as its precious and fine counterparts.
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